Something
about duck just screams French to me. I took the roulades from the French
Laundry cookbook, and got the gastrique recipe from http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/09/crispy-duck-with-blackberry-gastrique-recipe.html
I don’t
usually cook specifically French food, but I’ve been exposed to various
techniques of French cooking when making, say, mac and cheese using a béchamel.
Gastrique is something new to me and I thought the flavor was really
interesting; it’s like a fruity tasting sweet and sour sauce, and somehow works
well with duck.
Roulades
(for 1 serving):
1 duck
breast
1 large
leaf of swiss chard or savoy cabbage
Salt and
pepper
Ground
allspice
Bring a
pot of water to a boil, add the chard/cabbage leaf for 3-4 minutes, until
tender and remove to an ice water bath to stop cooking. Dry with paper towels. Remove
the skin from the duck breast (don’t even think about tossing it – we’ll be
rendering fat and making cracklings with it), and season with
salt/pepper/allspice.
Lay a
large piece of saran wrap lengthwise on a flat surface, and place the
chard/cabbage leaf in the center. Roll the duck breast lengthwise (aka hot dog
style), and place the breast on the chard/cabbage. Trim the chard so it’s more
or less a rectangle, the width of the duck, and wide enough to wrap around the
breast once. Wrap the chard around the breast, then wrap the plastic around the
chard. Twist the ends of the plastic wrap in opposite directions, so the
plastic becomes taught around the chard and helps make a perfect cylinder. Tie
the ends of the plastic wrap together, and refrigerate for an hour or two (or
more).
When it’s
getting to be about dinner time, bring a pot of water to 190°F, and add the
roulade (still in the plastic). Be sure to adjust the heat as needed to keep
the temp at 190, and cook for 6-7 minutes for medium rare, 7-8 minutes for
medium. Remove the roulade and let rest for 2-3 minutes before cutting.
Blackberry
Gastrique
½ cup
sugar
2 Tbsp
water
½ cup
Red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp
Red Wine
2/3 Cup
fresh blackberries
2
sprigs thyme
Salt and
pepper
Add the
sugar and water to a small saucepan over medium heat. Don’t stir the mixture,
but rotate the pan around occasionally to evenly cook the mixture until is
becomes a blonde caramel color, about 5 minutes Add the red wine vinegar, and
cook for 3 minutes longer. Add the red wine, and cook for 2-3 minutes longer,
until the mixture starts to become syrupy. Add the blackberries and thyme, and
continue to cook until the blackberries start to break down, another few
minutes. The sauce should be sort of syrupy when it’s done. Remove the pan from
heat, and season with salt and pepper to taste. You can make this ahead and
refrigerate the sauce, reheating before serving.
Duck
Cracklings:
Remember
the skin from the duck breast? Cut it into a few pieces, approximately 1 inch
each, and place in a cold pan. Turn the heat to medium, and cook the skin for
about 8 minutes, flipping as needed, until crispy. Take a coffee filter and
place it in a pyrex measuring cup/other container and pour the rendered fat
through. Refrigerate, and use judiciously to make everything awesome.
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